Glossary of Jewellery Terms

A

• Abalone: A natural shell material prized for its iridescent, ocean-coloured shimmer. It’s sliced into thin veneers or cabochons and set like gemstones, often as inlay. The surface shows shifting greens, blues, and pinks that change with the light. Craftspeople stabilise and seal it to improve durability in rings, pendants, and cufflinks.


• Accent stones: Small gemstones used to frame or highlight a larger centre stone. They add sparkle, balance, and a sense of proportion to a design. You’ll see them in halos, shoulders, and pavé bands. Choices range from tiny diamonds to coloured gems that tie a piece’s palette together.


• Acid etching: A surface-texturing technique that uses a controlled chemical bath to bite into metal. It creates crisp patterns, logos, or matte finishes without heavy tooling marks. The process relies on resists to protect areas you don’t want etched. It’s popular for intricate motifs where hand engraving would be too slow or costly.


• Agate: A banded variety of chalcedony available in a wide range of colours and patterns. It’s tough enough for everyday wear and takes a lovely polish. Designers use agate for cameos, beads, cabochons, and bold statement slices. Natural patterns—like moss, lace, or plume—give each piece a unique look.


• Age hardening (precipitation hardening): A heat-treatment that strengthens certain alloys by forming fine particles within the metal. Jewellers use it to harden materials like some gold, silver, and aluminium alloys after shaping. The trick is controlled temperature and time to boost strength without making the piece brittle. It’s handy for clasps, thin bangles, and components that need springy resilience.


• Alexandrite: A rare chrysoberyl famous for its dramatic colour change—green in daylight, reddish in incandescent light. It’s durable and highly collectible, often set as a centre stone. Because natural stones are scarce, lab-grown options are common. Its chameleon nature makes it a conversation-starter in fine jewellery.


• Alloy: A mixture of metals combined to tweak colour, strength, hardness, and workability. Gold alloys create carats and colours like yellow, rose, and white. Silver alloys improve tarnish resistance and durability over pure silver. The right alloy makes a design both beautiful and practical to wear.


• Aluminium: A lightweight, modern metal that resists corrosion and can be coloured by anodising. It’s comfortable for larger, sculptural pieces because it doesn’t weigh the wearer down. While softer than many jewellery metals, it’s great for bangles, earrings, and contemporary forms. Bright anodised hues open playful design possibilities.


• Amber: Fossilised tree resin valued for its warm glow and occasional insect inclusions. It’s light on the ear and neck, making big pieces easy to wear. Amber scratches more easily than gemstones, so gentle care is wise. Baltic amber in honey, cognac, or cherry tones is especially popular.


• Amethyst: A purple quartz beloved for its rich colour and clarity. It ranges from soft lilac to deep royal violet and pairs well with both gold and silver. Durable and affordable, it’s a staple for rings, pendants, and earrings. Well-cut stones show lively sparkle without breaking the bank.


• Amorphous metal (metal glass): A metal frozen into a glass-like, non-crystalline structure. It can offer high elastic limit and a distinct, silky sheen. While niche in jewellery, it’s used for sleek, modern forms and springy components. The unusual internal structure gives it eye-catching surface behaviour and feel.


• Anodising: An electrochemical process that thickens the oxide layer on metals like aluminium and titanium. It adds colour without paint and improves wear and corrosion resistance. Designers love the clean, saturated hues achievable with careful voltage control. It’s ideal for contemporary, colour-forward pieces and lightweight statement looks.


• Annealing: A heat-softening step that relieves stress in metal after work hardening. Jewellers anneal between forming stages so the metal doesn’t crack. The piece is heated, then cooled in air or quench, depending on alloy. Proper annealing makes forging, rolling, and bending smoother and safer.


• Anticlastic forming: A metal-shaping technique producing surfaces curving in opposite directions, like a saddle. It creates elegant, flowing cuffs and neckpieces with surprising stiffness. Thin sheet becomes strong through curvature rather than thickness. The results look airy yet feel robust on the wrist or collarbone.


• Antiquing (oxidising): Darkening recesses of a metal surface to bring out detail and contrast. Patinas add depth to engraving, texture, and granulation. Silver pieces often get a grey-black antique finish for vintage character. It’s a simple way to make patterns pop and reduce the “too shiny” look.


• Appliqué (metal appliqué): Adding thin decorative elements onto a base metal surface. The contrast in height and metal colour creates layered interest. Pieces can be soldered, fused, or riveted depending on design. It’s perfect for motifs, monograms, and mixed-metal storytelling.


• Apatite: A colourful gemstone that can show vivid neon blues and greens. It’s eye-catching but softer than many gems, so settings should protect it. Great for pendants and earrings where knocks are less likely. Its tropical hues bring a fresh, modern energy to a piece.


• Arabesque: A flowing, interlaced motif inspired by rhythmic, plant-like forms. It suits filigree, engraving, and cut-out metalwork beautifully. The repeating curves read as elegant rather than busy when scaled well. Designers use it to add movement and grace to bands and pendants.


• Arc welding (jewellery scale): An electric-arc joining method used selectively for small metal assemblies. Microwelders and TIG setups allow precise heat on findings and frames. It’s useful when soldering would flood detail or when joining dissimilar parts. Proper shielding and skill yield clean, strong joins with minimal cleanup.


• Art Deco: A style marked by bold geometry, symmetry, and streamlined glamour from the 1920s–30s. Think stepped forms, sunbursts, and striking contrasts of onyx and diamond. It’s crisp, architectural, and looks sharp in platinum or white gold. Modern designs often echo Deco lines for timeless sophistication.


• Art Nouveau: A curving, nature-inspired style from the late 19th to early 20th century. Motifs include vines, flowers, dragonflies, and sinuous female forms. Enamel and soft, organic lines are hallmarks of the look. Today’s designers riff on Nouveau to add romance and movement.


• Assay: The testing of precious metal content to verify fineness. It underpins hallmarking, giving buyers confidence in gold, silver, and platinum quality. Independent assays protect both consumer and maker. In many regions, approved offices apply official marks after testing.


• Asscher cut: A square step cut with clipped corners and a mesmerising hall-of-mirrors effect. It rewards excellent clarity and precise symmetry. The broad steps give flashes rather than fiery sparkle. It’s a chic choice for vintage-inspired and minimalist settings alike.


• Asterism: A star-shaped light effect seen in gems like star sapphire and star ruby. Fine needles within the stone align to reflect light as a star. Cabochon cuts show the effect best. Star stones feel magical and make simple settings sing.


• Attaché (articulated links): A construction approach using hinges or links so parts move smoothly. It improves comfort and drape in bracelets, necklaces, and statement collars. Articulation lets rigid elements conform to the body. Good engineering here separates high-end pieces from stiff, clunky ones.


• Aventurine: A quartz with sparkly inclusions (aventurescence) that catch the light. Greens are common, but it appears in other colours too. It’s a friendly, approachable gem for beaded strands and cabochons. The subtle glitter adds life without shouting.


• Aventurine glass (goldstone): A man-made glass with tiny metallic crystals that twinkle. It’s durable and cut like a gem for beads and cabochons. Coppery brown is classic, though blue and green versions exist. It offers reliable sparkle at an accessible price point.


• Azurite: A deep blue copper mineral often seen with malachite swirls. It’s softer, so protective settings and gentle wear are important. The painterly patterns make each piece one-of-a-kind. It shines in pendants, brooches, and earrings where it won’t be knocked.

B

• Bail: The bail is the little loop or finding that lets a pendant hang from a chain. It can be fixed, hidden, or articulated to let the pendant move naturally. Makers size the bail to suit the chain thickness and to balance the piece so it sits flat. Choosing the right bail is a small detail that makes a big difference to comfort and look.


• Baguette cut: A baguette cut is a slim, rectangular facet style with step-like facets, loved for its clean, architectural look. It shows clarity and colour more than sparkle, so stones need to be reasonably eye-clean. Jewellers use baguettes as side stones, accents, or in sleek Art Deco-inspired designs. They suit channel, bar, and rub-over (bezel) settings beautifully.


• Bakelite: Bakelite is an early thermoset plastic that became popular in vintage costume jewellery. It takes bold colours, can be carved, and holds a lovely sheen when polished. Because it’s thermoset, it doesn’t soften with heat like modern plastics, which affects how it’s shaped and repaired. Collectors prize authentic Bakelite bangles, beads, and brooches for their retro charm.


• Ball chain: Ball chain is made of small metal spheres linked at regular intervals, creating a flexible, modern line. It’s often used for minimalist pendants and ID tags, and it drapes nicely against the skin. The chain is measured by ball diameter, which affects strength and visual weight. It’s simple, unfussy, and works in stainless steel, silver, and plated finishes.


• Bangle: A bangle is a rigid bracelet that slides over the hand or opens with a hinge. It can be plain, patterned, hammered, or gem-set for different vibes from everyday to dressy. Solid precious-metal bangles are valued for their weight and durability, while hollow versions keep things light. Stacking multiple bangles is a classic styling trick for texture and movement.


• Bar setting: In a bar setting, slim metal bars grip a stone along two opposite edges, leaving the sides open to light. It’s sleek, secure, and great for line bracelets and eternity rings. Because the edges are exposed, the stone’s girdle must be protected and well-finished. The result is modern geometry with plenty of visual rhythm.


• Baroque pearl: Baroque pearls are beautifully irregular pearls with unique organic shapes. They often show wonderful orient and lustre because of their curvy surfaces. Designers use them to add personality and a less “perfect” elegance to necklaces and earrings. Each one feels like a small sculpture, so no two pieces look the same.


• Base metal: Base metal refers to non-precious alloys such as brass, bronze, or copper used as the main metal or as a core for plating. It’s affordable and versatile, though it may tarnish more quickly than noble metals. Makers often plate base-metal pieces with gold or rhodium to improve colour and wear. It’s common in fashion jewellery and as a structural layer under decorative finishes.


• Basket setting: A basket setting uses a latticed “basket” of metal to hold a gemstone while allowing light in from the sides. It’s lighter than a full bezel and can show more of the stone. Prongs rise from the basket to secure the gem at the crown. This construction balances strength, openness, and classic style.


• Bead setting: Bead setting secures small stones by raising tiny metal beads over their edges. It creates a sparkling, pavé-like surface that catches light from many angles. The technique needs steady hands and precise tools to keep spacing neat. It’s perfect for decorative borders, halos, and vintage-inspired details.


• Beadwork: Beadwork is the craft of stitching, stringing, or weaving beads into patterns and textures. It ranges from simple strands to intricate, loom-woven or off-loom designs. Materials span glass, gemstone, metal, and organic beads for endless looks. It’s a flexible technique for necklaces, bracelets, and richly embellished pieces.


• Belcher chain: A belcher (also called rolo) chain is built from uniform, round or slightly oval links with a solid, tidy profile. It’s strong enough for pendants yet refined for daily wear. The even spacing makes it a great “all-rounder” chain. In the UK, “belcher” is the familiar term you’ll hear at the bench and the counter.


• Beryl: Beryl is a gem family that includes emerald (green), aquamarine (blue), morganite (pink), and heliodor (yellow). Each variety has its own character, from emerald’s lush colour to aquamarine’s cool clarity. It’s commonly cut as step or brilliant styles depending on clarity. Designers choose beryl for its palette and timeless appeal.


• Bezel setting: A bezel setting (rub-over) wraps a rim of metal around the stone’s edge for a smooth, protective seat. It’s fantastic for active lifestyles because it guards the girdle and corners. A fine-cut bezel can still let in plenty of light and look sleek and modern. It’s a go-to for cabochons, opaque gems, and clean contemporary lines.


• Bib necklace: A bib necklace spreads out across the upper chest like a decorative collar. It can be made from layered chains, panels, or rows of stones for a statement look. Because of its coverage, balance and weight are key to comfort. It turns a simple outfit into something show-stopping in seconds.


• Bicolour gold: Bicolour gold combines two gold colours—often yellow and white—in one design. The contrast helps highlight patterns, links, or channels in a piece. It’s handy when you want mixed-metal styling without switching bracelets or rings. The effect is versatile and works across classic and modern aesthetics.


• Bimetal: Bimetal is a sandwich of two different metals or alloys bonded together, such as silver fused to gold. It lets makers achieve a precious surface with a more economical core. The bond must be sound so edges and drilled areas look tidy. It’s popular for contrasts, inlays, and pattern play in contemporary jewellery.


• Birthstone: A birthstone is a gemstone traditionally associated with each month of the year. People love them for personal meaning and easy gift-giving. Birthstones show up in rings, pendants, and stackers for a custom touch. It’s a simple way to add sentiment without saying a word.


• Black gold: Black gold isn’t a natural gold colour; it’s created by surface treatments like plating, patination, or laser texturing. The deep tone gives a dramatic backdrop to white diamonds and vivid gems. Like all finishes, it can wear over time and may need refreshment. It’s a bold, modern twist on a classic metal.


• Black rhodium plating: Black rhodium plating deposits a dark rhodium alloy on the metal’s surface for a smoky, graphite look. It lowers reflectivity and makes stones pop by contrast. Plating thickness and wear depend on use and care, so touch-ups are normal. Designers use it to add depth and edge to white metals.


• Blackened silver: Blackened (oxidised) silver is silver intentionally darkened—often with liver of sulphur—to emphasise texture. The finish sits mostly in recesses, creating lovely light-and-shadow effects. It will gradually burnish on high points, adding character with wear. It’s a favourite for artisan and textured styles.


• Bloodstone: Bloodstone (heliotrope) is a dark green jasper with red specks that look like droplets. It’s typically cut cabochon for signet rings, talismans, and pendants. The stone has a long history in intaglio carving and seal rings. Its moody palette pairs well with silver and antique gold tones.


• Bombé: Bombé describes a rounded, domed profile—think puffed rings and curvy earrings. The form gives volume without looking chunky from every angle. It’s comfortable on the finger and flattering to the hand. Gem pavé on a bombé surface creates gorgeous, continuous sparkle.


• Book chain: A book chain uses flat, rectangular links that resemble tiny books stacked together. It lies nicely and shows a distinctive Victorian-era character. The wide surface is great for engraving or decorative stamping. It’s often paired with lockets and drop pendants for a period feel.


• Box chain: Box chain is built from square links that create a smooth, cube-like profile. It’s flexible, strong, and neat under small bails. The clean geometry suits modern pendants and minimal looks. It resists kinking better than many fine chains of similar weight.


• Box clasp: A box clasp uses a springy tongue that snaps into a box housing for a secure connection. It’s common on tennis bracelets and necklaces where safety matters. Many include a figure-eight safety catch for belt-and-braces security. It blends function with a tidy, integrated appearance.


• Brass: Brass is a copper-zinc alloy with a warm golden colour and good workability. It’s widely used in fashion jewellery and as a model material in prototyping. Brass will tarnish, developing a darker patina unless sealed or plated. It’s a budget-friendly way to explore gold tones and bold designs.


• Brilliant cut: The brilliant cut is designed to maximise sparkle using triangular and kite-shaped facets. The round brilliant is the most famous, but brilliant faceting appears in many shapes. It’s fantastic for lively diamonds and coloured gems with good transparency. If you want fire and scintillation, this is the classic route.


• Brilliance: Brilliance is the return of white light from within a gemstone, making it look bright and lively. It’s different from fire (coloured flashes) and scintillation (sparkle on movement). Good cutting and a clean stone help brilliance really sing. In design, brilliance draws the eye even in simple settings.


• Briolette: A briolette is a drop-shaped, fully faceted bead drilled for hanging. It sparkles along its whole surface, catching light with every movement. Makers love briolettes for delicate earrings and pendant clusters. They’re elegant, airy, and perfect for layering.


• Britannia silver: Britannia silver is a higher-purity silver alloy at 958/1000, richer than sterling (925). It has a slightly whiter tone and is beautifully malleable for silversmithing. The softness means designs must consider wear, especially for thin parts. It’s hallmarked with the Britannia standard in UK assay offices.


• Brooch: A brooch is a decorative pin worn on clothing, scarves, or hats. It can be tiny and discreet or large and sculptural. Modern clasps include simple pins, trombone fittings, and locking mechanisms for security. Brooches are brilliant for showcasing motifs, gemstones, and enamel work.


• Bronze: Bronze is primarily a copper-tin alloy with a warm, reddish-brown tone. It develops a natural patina that many find attractive. While common in art and craft jewellery, it can sometimes discolour skin, so sealing helps. It’s great for bold, textured pieces and historical vibes.


• Brushed finish: A brushed finish uses fine abrasive strokes to create a soft, satin sheen. It mutes reflections and hides light scuffs better than a mirror polish. Directional brushing can add subtle lines and design interest. It’s an easy way to keep pieces looking refined but relaxed.


• Buff-top cut: A buff-top cut has a smooth, domed top like a cabochon and a faceted pavilion underneath. You get clean colour on top with extra sparkle from below. It’s useful for stones with interesting body colour or inclusions. Designers choose it for a modern, streamlined gem look.


• Butterfly back: A butterfly back (scroll back) is the common friction clutch that holds a stud earring in place. It slides onto a notched post and grips with spring tension. It’s quick to use but should fit snugly for security. Many pairs include silicone discs for extra comfort and support.


• Byzantine chain: Byzantine chain weaves multiple links into a complex, rope-like pattern with great flexibility. It feels luxurious and substantial without being stiff. The texture plays nicely with plain pendants or stands alone as a statement. It’s a timeless choice for both classic and contemporary wardrobes.

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

L

M

N

O

P

Q

R

S

T

U

V

W

X

Y

Z